Just two stops from Shinjuku on the Keio New Line lies Hatagaya, a small but vibrant neighborhood that effortlessly blends Tokyo’s urban pulse with a cozy, local atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where indie cafés, mom-and-pop shops, and a strong sense of community coexist. Whether you’re a traveler looking to explore beyond the typical tourist zones or a Tokyoite seeking a slower pace without leaving the city, Hatagaya is worth a visit.
Here’s a curated guide to help you enjoy the best of what this underrated neighborhood has to offer:
Freeman Shokudo
Freeman Shokudo was opened in 2020 by a husband-and-wife team who relocated from Brooklyn to Tokyo. Over time, it has become a local favorite, thanks to its outstanding barbecue. Specializing in pit-smoked meats, the standout is their pastrami—cured for seven days, air-dried for 24 hours, and slow-smoked for twelve hours to achieve its rich, tender flavor. Other must-tries include the smoked mackerel sandwich and what many claim is the most delicious falafel in Tokyo.
Address: 2-27-4 Nishihara
Cafe Les Gourmandises
Cafe Les Gourmandises is a charming little spot tucked away in Hatagaya, specializing in sandwiches made with homemade bread, alongside a variety of handcrafted desserts and sweets. Owner Yukie Ohno honed her skills at some of the most prestigious patisseries in both Japan and France, bringing refined technique and creativity to every dish. The cafe’s famous mackerel sandwich is a must-try, and the seasonal dessert menu ensures there’s always something new and delightful to discover. Whether you’re stopping by for a casual lunch or a sweet afternoon treat, Cafe Les Gourmandises offers a cozy, flavorful escape.
Address: 2-33-14 Nishihara
Sunday Bake Shop
Sunday Bake Shop in Hatagaya, Tokyo, is known as a pioneer of the Japanese bake shop scene. The counter is always full of simple, comforting treats inspired by British baking, like buttery scones and rich carrot cake. They also offer drinks and homemade ice cream. One of the best things? Unlike most cafes in Japan, they open at 7:30 AM. It’s the perfect spot to start your day with something freshly baked and delicious.
Address: 6-35-3 Honmachi
Steppin
Steppin, which opened in April 2022, is a hidden gem tucked just one block off the main road—without a signboard, it’s easy to miss unless you know where to look. Opening bright and early at 8:00 AM, the shop offers a tempting variety of freshly baked breads, including focaccia, German-style loaves, Danish bread, English muffins, and more. If you’re visiting from Europe and find yourself missing high-quality bread, Steppin is a delightful discovery that’s well worth seeking out.
Address: 6-37-10 Honmachi
Equal
Sunday Bake Shop, located in Hatagaya, Tokyo, is one of the pioneers of Japan’s bake shop scene. The counter is always packed with simple, unpretentious treats inspired by classic British baking. Think buttery scones, rich carrot cake, and other comforting favorites. They also offer a variety of drinks and homemade ice cream. Another highlight? Unlike many cafés in Japan, Sunday Bake Shop opens at 7:30 AM. It’s the perfect spot to start your day with something warm and freshly baked.
Address: 2-26-16 Nishihara
Paddlers Coffee
With beans from Portland’s renowned Stumptown Coffee Roasters and a minimalist, wood-accented interior, Paddlers Coffee offers some of the finest brews in Tokyo. It’s a calm, welcoming space to enjoy a hand-poured coffee, recharge, and maybe even chat with a fellow coffee lover. Founded by Daisuke Matsushima, who honed his skills in Guatemala and Portland, Paddlers is more than just great coffee. It’s a place designed to make you feel like you’re visiting a friend—a place where you truly belong. For coffee enthusiasts, Paddlers Coffee is a must-visit, offering exceptional taste, warmth, and a sense of community.
Address: 2-26-5 Nishihara
Sento (Public Bath)
No neighborhood guide is complete without a visit to the local sento. Hatagaya’s public bathhouses are not only a way to unwind but also a window into the slow, communal life still alive in parts of Tokyo. Bring your towel, your manners, and prepare for some well-deserved relaxation.
Hatagaya Shopping Street
Wander through the Hatagaya Shopping Street and you’ll find everything from fresh produce to quirky old-school shops. It’s a reminder of the Tokyo that once was – unpretentious, neighborly, and full of little surprises.
Shinjuku Central Park
Though not in Hatagaya proper, Shinjuku Central Park is just a short stroll away and offers a refreshing green break. With food trucks, shaded benches, and views of the skyscrapers, it’s a great spot to take your coffee or sandwich from one of the local cafés and unwind.
Hatagaya might not make the cover of guidebooks, but that’s exactly what makes it special. It’s a neighborhood with character, filled with hidden gems and warm hospitality. Whether you’re here for a quick coffee or looking to settle in for a while, Hatagaya welcomes you with open arms.
